Discover the Basque Country, Navarre and La Rioja

The French Basque coast: from Bayonne and Biarritz to charming Saint-Jean-de-Luz

We set off from Bayonne, the capital of the French Basque Country. A surprising city full of medieval streets, colourful half-timbered façades, cathedrals and… gastronomy. Bayonne is famous for its ham (jambon de Bayonne) and chocolate, but also for its relaxed riverside atmosphere. Everywhere you feel the locals’ pride in their Basque roots and culture. From Bayonne, the route heads towards Biarritz: a fashionable seaside resort, once the playground of the aristocracy, now a stylish blend of belle-époque villas and surf town. Wide beaches, luxury boutiques, lovely restaurants and surf shops: Biarritz feels like a holiday from the very first minute. My favourite on the French Basque coast is still Saint-Jean-de-Luz. The atmosphere is easy-going, and there are plenty of delicious places to eat, by the harbour or in the welcoming old town. With a little luck, you find yourself on one of the many terraces in the evening, a local takes out a guitar and suddenly everyone is singing along to Basque songs. Wonderful.

Navarre, the green gateway to Spain

By bicycle, we followed the EuroVelo route through the Valle de Baztán, and I would actually recommend the same route by car. It is a beautiful way to enter Spain and discover the green, mountainous region of Navarre. The Valle de Baztán is a fairytale valley full of misty forests, traditional caseríos (farmhouses) and small villages where time seems to stand still. Gradually, you also join the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Pamplona and the Camino: more than the running of the bulls

Next stop: Pamplona, known for the running of the bulls during the San Fermín festivities, but certainly much more than that. The historic centre, with its cathedral, city walls, colourful façades and little tapas bars, is welcoming and lively, especially in the early evening when everyone takes to the streets. You walk across the same squares as the pilgrims heading to Santiago, taste pintxos in the old town and enjoy the contrast between the bustling bars and the peaceful parks just outside the walls.

From pilgrimage route to vineyards: from Navarre to La Rioja

For many, Pamplona (rather than Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port) is kilometre zero of their own pilgrimage route. The atmosphere along the route between Pamplona and Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, is therefore unique. You can also experience the Camino de Santiago without having to walk every step, following the route by car.

Every little village along the way has a church, Romanesque portico, village square or small ermita you will want to explore. Perfect for stopping regularly, taking a walk and enjoying the landscape. I found the villages of Los Arcos and Viana, and the town of Estella-Lizarra, to be real gems and wonderful surprises.

La Rioja: a paradise for wine lovers

Then it is on towards La Rioja, a name that immediately rings a bell for wine lovers. This region is, of course, known for its Rioja wines, endless vineyards and characterful bodegas. A visit to one or more wineries is a must here: from a small family-run bodega to an avant-garde wine château and truly remarkable design architecture. You taste local red, rosé and white wines. Guided visits can be arranged privately or in a group.

Vitoria-Gasteiz, Bilbao & San Sebastián: the cities of the Spanish Basque Country

On the way back, you return to the Basque Country, with a series of interesting cities:

• Vitoria-Gasteiz: the often-overlooked capital of the Basque Country, with a beautiful historic centre, cathedral and green parks. Ideal for those who enjoy discovering less touristy cities.
• Bilbao: once a gritty industrial city, now a modern cultural hotspot, with the famous Guggenheim Museum, design architecture along the river and a fantastic food culture.
• San Sebastián (Donostia): the undisputed capital of gastronomy, with its beautiful shell-shaped bay, elegant promenade and an extraordinary concentration of pintxos bars and Michelin-starred restaurants. You will definitely want to stay at least two nights to fully enjoy the culinary scene.

Who is this trip for?

Are you a traveller looking for authenticity and a welcoming atmosphere? Do you love culture, beautiful landscapes, charming villages and good food? Then this combination of the Basque Country, Navarre and La Rioja is just right. If you have more time, it can also be beautifully combined with Castilla y León towards Madrid (see other blogs). You dream, I make it happen.

• By car, at a leisurely pace with short distances and plenty of stops.
• More time in La Rioja for additional, exceptional winery visits?
• Or something more active, by bicycle or on foot, taking in a few stages of the pilgrimage route?
• Combine it with other regions of Spain.

I would love to arrange a personally designed route, atmospheric places to stay and my favourite food stops along the way: from a simple pintxos bar to a refined gastronomic menu. Let’s connect if you too would like to discover the real, different Spain.