Vietnam from North to South: my favourite memories

Starting point: Hanoi, Vietnam's charming French-colonial capital.

Love at first sight, if you like beautiful chaos: busy streets full of scooters, yet at the same time a city with soul, history and a vibrant life. In the Old Quarter you stroll through narrow streets lined with typical "tube houses", cafés and street food. Around Hoan Kiem Lake there is always something going on: locals catching up, couples taking photos, people simply sitting quietly and watching life go by.

There is so much to see and do:

• The atmospheric Old Quarter
• Hoan Kiem Lake and the Ngoc Son Temple
• The French Quarter with its wide boulevards and colonial buildings
• The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the surrounding complex
• The Temple of Literature, an oasis of calm in the city

But my favourite memory of Hanoi is the early morning, just before and during sunrise, when the locals come out for their morning rituals. Walking along the lake and seeing everything that's going on is unforgettable:

• People practising tango or line dancing
• Groups playing badminton
• Men playing đá cầu (a typically Vietnamese sport played with your feet, knees and head)
• Women performing graceful dances with red fans

Everything happens together, as a community. For us Westerners it's wonderful to watch it all in admiration as a silent witness. And then, suddenly, 1-2-3: everyone disappears. Back home, getting ready for the working day, I assume.

Night train to Sapa: an adventure in itself

Next stop: Sapa, in the far north, in the mountains close to the Chinese border. To avoid many hours in the car, we took the night train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. That alone is a unique experience:

• The busy station platform with travellers, luggage and snacks
• Our private compartment with little beds
• The gentle rocking of the train as you fall asleep

Great fun and a perfect start to the mountain adventure.

A homestay among the rice terraces

From Sapa we drove deeper into the valleys, towards villages such as Ta Van, Bac Ha, Ta Chai or Lao Chai. Here we stayed with local families, a real homestay. Everything was very simple, but clean. In the evening we cooked together in a “rustic” local kitchen: fresh vegetables, rice and local specialities, topped off with “happy water” (rice wine). If you prefer a little more comfort, the region also has lovely alternatives: charming small-scale lodges and hotels with stunning views over the rice terraces. So you can choose between very basic and authentic, or more comfort and style. The region itself is magnificent: rice terraces, little paths along the hills, buffalo in the fields and colourful hill tribes in traditional dress. Even though I was in the north in August, in the middle of the rainy season, it was actually fine. We had a shower every day, but also plenty of sunny spells. And that was exactly when it was fantastic to walk and hike among the rice terraces in this breathtaking landscape.

Sapa town is more touristy, with more cafés, restaurants and shops full of handicrafts and souvenirs. That has its own charm too: it's nice to wander around, have a massage, or enjoy a coffee overlooking the valleys. There are some beautiful hotels, such as the Silk Path Grand Sapa Resort & Spa, where you can be pampered in comfort and style.

Halong Bay: cruising between limestone rocks

After the mountains we headed back towards the coast by car, for a small-scale boat cruise on Halong Bay. We deliberately chose 2 nights on board. That way you sail deeper into the bay, away from the busier routes, and you have time to really enjoy incredible sunsets between the limestone rocks, swim or kayak to small beaches and hidden lagoons, and above all be spoiled on board with delicious Vietnamese meals, often with lots of fresh fish and seafood. Pure relaxation, slow travel on the water.

Central Vietnam: emperors, passes and coastal towns

Hue: imperial grandeur

In central Vietnam lies Hue, the old imperial capital. The city breathes history: the Citadel with the Imperial City and the Forbidden Purple City, temples, pagodas and old tombs along the Perfume River. With a good guide everything comes to life: stories about the dynasties, symbolism in the architecture, war damage and restoration. You walk out with a real "wow" feeling, full of respect for the richness of Vietnamese culture.

The Hai Van Pass: one big "wow"

The drive over the Hai Van Pass between Hue and Danang is simply stunning. Winding roads along the coast, views over bays and mountains. We did the drive by car, but next time I'll ride on the back of a Vespa. Along the way there are plenty of places to stop: fishing villages, temples and even "Ghost City", the remarkable cemeteries with colourful tombs.

Danang: a modern coastal city full of energy

Danang sits where the coast meets the city. It's a lively city with thousands of scooters carrying 1, 2 or even 3 passengers, close to the former demilitarised zone. It's a modern hub with wide sandy beaches and beach resorts. This became our beach time. If you like a mix of beach, city, nice restaurants and nightlife, Danang is a great stop. If you'd rather have it quieter, the beach near Hoi An is a better option.

Hoi An: instant zen

Just half an hour's drive from Danang, and the atmosphere is completely different. Hoi An is pure "zenitude":

• Car-free streets in the old town
• Yellow houses with lanterns in every colour
• Little boutiques, art galleries and tailors who make a made-to-measure outfit in a few days
• Cosy cafés and riverfront restaurants

It's the perfect place to stroll at leisure, visit the local market, take a cooking class, or simply enjoy the atmosphere with a drink as the lanterns light up in the evening.

Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta

For me, Ho Chi Minh City in the south is the "New York" of Vietnam. Lots of high-rises, crowds and traffic, modern shopping malls next to colonial buildings. Amid all that bustle you'll also find little pearls of calm: green courtyards, stylish cafés, and historic buildings such as the beautiful Post Office and Notre-Dame Cathedral. Not to be missed is the War Remnants Museum about the Vietnam War. If you want to learn more about the war, the Cu Chi tunnels make a fascinating excursion. I found it a bit touristy, but actually quite fun. Even though I'm personally a little prone to claustrophobia, I still ventured underground and made my way through part of the tunnels. Glad I did.

Mekong Delta: life along the water

The Mekong Delta is a world of its own: a labyrinth of rivers and small side channels, with all kinds of crops grown along the banks. We stayed in a homestay again and explored the region by bike. During the day you ride along narrow paths, between orchards and rice fields, little villages and markets. Everywhere along the road you see enthusiastic, waving children. The people are incredibly friendly and the food along the way is delicious: fresh fruit, simple noodle soups, local specialities.

On to Cambodia

On my last visit to Vietnam I didn't fly home from Ho Chi Minh City; instead we chose a beautiful continuation: by boat along the Mekong to Phnom Penh, for the next stage in Cambodia. That too is a wonderful combination for anyone with time who wants to discover several countries in one trip.

How I help you with your Vietnam dream

I'd love to help you with your plans for Vietnam:

• From the classic must-sees such as Hanoi, Halong Bay, Hue, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City
• To more relaxed and "off the beaten track" experiences, such as homestays in mountain villages or quieter spots in the Mekong Delta or the north.
• You dream it, I will make it happen.

There are many ways to visit Vietnam: from comfortable and luxurious to adventurous and basic, or a lovely combination of both. The country also combines perfectly with neighbouring destinations such as Cambodia, Laos or Thailand. I'm happy to think along with you, put together a route at your pace and arrange the right places and experiences to suit you.